F1 22 Netherlands (Zandvoort) Setup (Wet and Dry)

The reintroduction of Zandvoort for the 2021 F1 season was a breath of fresh air for racing fans and drivers wanting action, higher stakes and a bigger challenge. In 2021, Max Verstappen won the race in an exhilarating finish that saw him crowned the winner on home soil.

Zandvoort is 4.259 km in length and has 14 winding turns. It’s a thrilling ride with many drivers often describing it as a roller coaster with sharp corners that requires quick changes of speed and direction.

To help you compete on this track, we’ve got the best F1 setup for the Dutch GP.

Setup components can be tricky to understand, but you can learn more about them in the complete F1 22 setup guide.

Best F1 22 Netherlands (Zandvoort) setup

Front Wing Aero: 25
Rear Wing Aero: 30
DT On Throttle: 50%
DT Off Throttle: 50%
Front Camber: -2.50
Rear Camber: -2.00
Front Toe: 0.05
Rear Toe: 0.20
Front Suspension: 6
Rear Suspension: 3
Front Anti-Roll Bar: 9
Rear Anti-Roll Bar: 2
Front Ride Height: 3
Rear Ride Height: 6
Brake Pressure: 100%
Front Brake Bias: 50%
Front Right Tyre Pressure: 25 psi
Front Left Tyre Pressure: 25 psi
Rear Right Tyre Pressure: 23 psi
Rear Left Tyre Pressure: 23 psi
Tyre Strategy (25% race): Soft-Medium
Pit Window (25% race): 7-9 lap
Fuel (25% race): +1.5 laps

Best F1 22 Netherlands (Zandvoort) setup (wet)

Front Wing Aero: 40
Rear Wing Aero: 50
DT On Throttle: 80%
DT Off Throttle: 50%
Front Camber: -2.50
Rear Camber: -1.00
Front Toe: 0.05
Rear Toe: 0.20
Front Suspension: 1
Rear Suspension: 1
Front Anti-Roll Bar: 1
Rear Anti-Roll Bar: 5
Front Ride Height: 2
Rear Ride Height: 7
Brake Pressure: 100%
Front Brake Bias: 50%
Front Right Tyre Pressure: 23.5 psi
Front Left Tyre Pressure: 23.5 psi
Rear Right Tyre Pressure: 23 psi
Rear Left Tyre Pressure: 23 psi
Tyre Strategy (25% race): Soft-Medium
Pit Window (25% race): 7-9 lap
Fuel (25% race): +1.5 laps

Aerodynamics

The Zandvoort circuit has many flowing sections, banked corners with a lot of camber, and a long start-finish straight. As a result, you need higher levels of downforce to give you an advantage in the flowing sections of the track in Turn 4, 5 and 6 in Sector 1.

In dry conditions the front and rear wings are set to 25 and 30. These aren’t as high as you would have in Monaco or Singapore, as there are overtaking opportunities at the end of the long start-finish straight due to the first DRS zone heading into the Tarzan corner (T1). Since the Hugenholtzbocht corner is banked, you can carry much more speed than you would at any conventional hairpin.

In the wet, the wings are turned up to 40 and 50 in the rear to maximise lap time in the flowing and twisty sections of the track, especially the latter parts of Sector 1 and Sector 2.

Transmission

The on and off-throttle differential is set to 50% as you want better corner turn-in and stability at the expense of a bit of traction. You could, however, increase the differential on-throttle a bit if you need more traction in the traction zones out of the Hugenholtz (T3) and Renault corners (T8).

In the wet, increase the on-throttle differential to 80% to aid traction out of corners as grip is already pretty low. Off-throttle remains at 50% to ensure corner turn in isn’t compromised.

Suspension Geometry

The front camber is set to -2.50 to maximise grip on turn in, making the car more responsive. The rear is set to -2.00 so that the rear tyres are preserved, but still provide good grip in the banked corners of Tarzan (T1), Kumhobocht (T12), and Arie (T13). In the wet, the rear camber is reduced to -1.00 to maximise straight-line speed.

Increasing negative camber will improve lateral grip and aid in tackling the banked corners. You won’t lose much time in the straights and out of traction zones as the trade-off for increased cornering grip will improve lap time.

Front and rear toe are 0.05 and 0.20 which will give the car good stability around the track. These values remain the same for wet conditions.

Suspension

Keep the front suspension at 6 and 3 for the rear. The anti-roll bars are set to 9 (front) and 2 (rear). If you feel the car understeers a bit more than you like, increase the rear ARB in one-point increments until you feel comfortable with the car’s stability. Watch out for the tricky Sheivlak (T6) and Marlboro corners (T7), as you can easily lose your rear.

In the wet, keep the suspension soft and set the front and rear suspension to 1. Front and rear ARB should be set to 1 and 5. This will help compensate for the higher wing angles and allow the car to rely a bit more on its tyres through the demanding corners.

The ride height, in dry conditions, is set to 3 and 6 to help the car attack the kerbs out of Turns 3, 7, and the chicane at Turns 10 and 11. In the wet, the front ride height is set to 2 and the rear is 7.

Brakes

Brake pressure remains at maximum (100%). Maximum brake pressure will help with lock-ups in heavy braking corners such as Audi S–Bocht (T11) after the DRS zone. Keeping the brake bias at 50% will also minimise the chances of ruining your tyres.

The setup is the same for wet conditions.

Tyres

Tyre pressures play an important role in determining peak grip. In the dry, the front and rear pressures are at 25 psi and 23 psi. The rear tyre pressures are a bit lower to give the car better traction as you can easily lose your rear at Hunserug (T4), Rob Slotemaker Bocht (T5) and Sheivlak (T6). Tyre pressures are high to improve straight-line speed in Sector 2 and 3.

In the wet, tyre pressures are lowered. Set the front to 23.5 psi and the rear tyes to 23 psi. This will provide a greater contact patch on the fronts and give you better grip.

Pit window (25% race)

Zandvoort isn’t much of a tyre killer. Coupled with the fact that tyre wear isn’t a major concern in 25% races, you could start off with soft tyres. Stopping at lap 7-9 and then going onto the mediums should give the best overall lap time.